HUMAN PRACTICES
BUCT received a lot of community feedbacks on scalp health through surveys and marketing reports, which inspired us to design the project. There was a time when we wanted to design a medical probiotic for seborrheic alopecia (AGA). But a hair product expert,Dr Haobo Zhang suggested we do something that will benefit a wider range of people. Therefore, we shifted the focus of the project to the conservation of scalp microecology. Other than that, we interviewed two medical professionals (dermatologist and esthetician Yang Xufang, dermatologist Li Jinfang). Based on their medical points of view, we considered more safety issues and made improvements. In addition, we maintain communication with other teams to facilitate each other's projects and safety design. During this time, a synthetic route for 2-phenylethyl Alcohol was also established.We did also interview Guo Chaowan, the skincare R&D manager of MARUBI. His advice stimulated the design of our application method, and he also reminded us to pay attention to the rules or laws related to our project. We went to some gatherings or meetings online and received some feedbacks useful for concept updating. All the Human Practice work had an essential impact on our project.
WHO considers shiny, odor-free hair to be one of the criteria for good health. Hair condition and scalp health are closely related. We've gone from just focusing on hair loss to keeping our hair healthy by focusing on scalp health. So we did some basic research on scalp health issues.
In August 2012, in order to bring more people's attention to scalp health, the Swiss HICAS Biological Research Center designated November 1 every year as "World Scalp Health Day". In recent years, with the increasing attention of Chinese people to big health, scalp health management has also become an important part. According to the hair loss population survey released by the Chinese Health and Health Commission in 2019, there are already about 250 million people troubled by hair loss in China, which means that on average, 1 out of 6 suffers from hair loss.
According to a survey conducted by Zhongshan Hospital Affiliated to Fudan University, the incidence of acne among young people aged from 11 to 25 in China can be as high as 85%. People's main scalp problems are itchy scalp, dandruff and greasy scalp. The incidence of dandruff among young people in China is 81%, and the cumulative proportion of mild and moderate is 56%. People with healthy scalps only make up a very small percentage. In addition to the survey of young people, another survey of all ages shows that 99% are troubled by various scalp problems, and about 35% have problems such as hair loss, hair loss, oily scalp and hair. Dandruff and itching accounted for as high as 34%. Therefore, scalp health problems are closely related to most people.
At the same time, we also focus on a disease that causes a poor scalp environment. Seborrheic alopecia is a condition that causes the scalp to excrete a large amount of sebum, making hair loss more pronounced. In China, about 250 million Chinese suffer from seborrheic alopecia, while seborrheic alopecia affects up to 80% of white men and 42% of women in the world. According to an international questionnaire that nearly 20,000 people participated in, the overall prevalence of AGA was 21.3% in men and 6% in women.【1】
Scalp problems have become a global concern. So many people have scalp health problems!
When we turned our attention from the literature to local communities, we found that people were equally anxious about various scalp problems, which also caught our attention.
In a questionnaire about hair loss, we received over 400 responses. The results showed that nearly 2/3 of the people were worried about hair loss, and 90% of them were troubled by hair loss. In addition, we surveyed the popularity of scalp problem discussions online, and the data shows that the number is as high as tens of millions. The investigation is shown in the figure below. As can be seen from the survey results, many people in our local community also have scalp health problems, and the proportion is high.
BUCT has received a lot of community feedbacks on scalp health through surveys and market reports, which inspired our design . We believe that scalp is indeed something everyone should take care of. So BUCT thought about how the use of probiotics can have a beneficial effect on scalp health.
Fig 1 the drgree of worry about hair loss
Fig 2 the drgree of annoyance about hair loss
Fig 3 Online scalp health discussion
First of all, it is best known that the Malassezia bacteria causes hair loss. Malassezia bacteria belongs to a common fungal family that mainly parasitizes on the scalp of the human body and is nourished by the sebum secreted by the scalp. The excessive multiplication of Malassezia bacteria can lead to an increase in the amount of dandruff, resulting in a thinning of the patient's scalp cuticle layer, severely weakening the normal defense barrier of the scalp, destroying the healthy state of the scalp, and causing a large number of hair loss.
More seriously, Malassezia bacteria , which needs to feed on oil, breaks down sebum in large quantities, causing a surge of free fatty acids on the scalp. Therefore, the fatty acids on the scalp are generally produced by microorganisms breaking down sebum. In the process of checking the data, we realized that free fatty acids not only lead to the occurrence and aggravation of hair follicle inflammation, but also produce sour odor[2], which makes us realize that the smell is likely to further increase the psychological burden of people, because most people think that the strange smell of hair will affect people's image. BUCT doesn't think scent is necessary for everyone, but perhaps many people think that odor is a problem.
Therefore, BUCT believes that fatty acids and Malassezia bacteria play a very important role in scalp health. They will not only lead to the occurrence and aggravation of hair follicle inflammation, serious hair loss, but also produce bad odors, further affecting people's mental health. Therefore, BUCT chooses fatty acids consumption as the core of the project to create a healthy scalp environment for people in need.
BUCT had considered using probiotics to treat seborrheic alopecia. At the beginning of the project, we tried to find a factor that would work on the scalp and affect the hair growth pathway, but too many uncertainties made us feel lost. Then we get to consult anti-hair loss experts for some inspiration, which would be helpful to improve the project design.
We had the honor of interviewing Zhang Haobo, an expert in hair care products who has been working with medical companies and developing new hair care products for a long time. She is studying how to improve hair growth through a certain cell signaling pathway.
At the time, we struggled to find substances that could affect the signaling pathways of hair follicle cells, and were worried that simply depleting fatty acids in E. coli Nissle 1917 would not cure seborrheic alopecia. However, in her point of view, the design of consuming fatty acids is very valuable. She suggested that we pay more attention to this design for the excess free fatty acid on the skin surface is one of the essential reasons for the occurrence of skin diseases. If we take general needs into consideration, we should not only focus on seborrheic alopecia. The oil secretion of the scalp is very strong, which often leads to scalp health problems such as dandruff and itchy scalps. Therefore,we might as well design a project helpful to a wider population, that is, to improve scalp health by focusing on scalp microecology.
In addition, Doctor Zhang suggested that our biggest problem might be the the activity of the protective bacteria. We realized that the activity of bacteria was very important for the form and efficacy of the product. Thus we did the following thinking:
First, from the perspective of a wider range of people, what form of products are they more willing to use?
Second, what kind of product form can better ensure the activity of bacteria?
Third, what substances can be added to make the product more effective, more durable, and synergistic?
After speaking with Doctor Zhang, we realized the importance of scalp health, which involves more people and does not conflict with the vision of treating hair loss. With her advice, we shifted the focus of the program from seborrheic alopecia to a focus on scalp health. At the same time, Doctor Zhang also introduced us to some applications of genetically engineered probiotics in real life.
After determining that the core of the project was scalp health, BUCT had questions about the safety design of the product. We originally intended to control the probiotics through an iron ion switch to ensure biosafety. However, the iron ions could be harmful to scalp health, which confused us. At the same time, in order to educate people about scalp health, BUCT tried to get more information about how to make the scalp healthy and expertise about scalp care. Whether it is safety design or educating people about scalp health, these are all medically relevant areas, so BUCT is eager to consult medical professionals.
BUCT had the honor of interviewing two veteran dermatologists. Dr. Li Jinfang is a senior dermatologist from Mengzhong Hospital in Wuhai, Inner Mongolia, specializing in Chinese medicine healing, skin care, etc. Dr. Yang Xufang is a senior dermatologist and cosmetic doctor from Beijing Tiantan Puhua Hospital.
Dr. Li sorted out the Chinese medicine for our scalp problems from a TCM perspective while providing us with important advice on safety design. Li advised us not to use iron ions to control the number of bacteria because they are harmful to the human scalp. Li's suggestion caused us to think about our need to further update our safety design to ensure biosafety. In addition, Dr. Li affirmed our judgment. Malassezia folliculitis is a fungal skin disease with follicular damage mainly caused by Malassezia sphericalis infection. Dr. Yang also confirmed that "there is a close relationship between the fungal flora and the scalp environment", and that free fatty acids can stimulate the follicle opening to produce more flaking and block the follicle opening, resulting in excessive sebum retention and repeated stimulation by free fatty acids, which eventually leads to follicle expansion and rupture, releasing the contents into the surrounding tissue and producing an inflammatory response.
Both doctors used their medical knowledge to provide us with scientific scalp care knowledge and detailed regimen for popularization while improving the safety of the project, and BUCT also applied this knowledge in the field education activities and live science activities after the interview, which is very meaningful for BUCT's educational practice.
Based on the recommendations of Lee and Yang's medical perspective, we identified the need to change the design of the suicide system and also began to think about whether our design could inhibit Malassezia. We reconsidered safety issues based on the recommendations of the physicians and continued to make improvements in subsequent HP activities.
The scalp has the thinnest skin in the body after our eyes. Since the scalp is a part of the skin, scalp care is a form of skin care.
NJU-China helped us ask an Investor, whose name is Chen, to provide some advice on developing a retailed product. Chen suggested that the dosage form is very important and should be easy for consumers to use. For example, minoxidil was in the form of tincture and could be sprayed onto the scalp, which was relatively acceptable for customers. In addition, foam and gel were also highly accepted by customers because these forms suited their using habits. Some customers cared about their hairline so they can apply the foam and gel to the place they want to help hair growth in specific areas. This information was then used to inform our product design, and then we also consulted with experts who are actually developing skincare products.
The largest and most reputable eye skin research facility in the world is located at MARUBI, which is well known for its superior eye care in the field of skin care products. Since its founding, the company has concentrated on skin science research, viewing eye care as a breakthrough. BUCT has always aimed to turn our project into a product that can be used in the real world. However, we didn't think we were professional enough. So we approached MARUBI, a leading Chinese skin care product company, and communicated the project design at a practical application level.
We had the good fortune to receive a lot of advice from Mr. Chaowan Guo, Product Development Manager of MARUBI. Guo has devoted many years to research in the fields of bio-science and skin science, at the forefront of cosmetic technology. He also has a very extensive background in creating and using skin care products.
Because E. coli Nissle 1917 must still be active when delivered to the customer. We anticipate that we will use the method of cold chain transportation of live bacterial solution. According to Guo, if it were not for commodities with high demand in a short period, such as milk, the cost of selling commodities via cold chain transportation would be very high. Guo also proposed processing the probiotics into freeze-dried powder to maximize their activity. When using, place them in the auxiliary liquid to mix and resuscitate them before smearing the mixture on the scalp.
In addition, Guo also suggested that we make the auxiliary liquid into a single-use essence. In terms of convenience, the dosage is fixed, so the user does not need to consider the dosage at each use, and the packaging is light and small, making it easy to carry. More importantly, this method can completely avoid adding any antiseptic with an antibacterial effect to the auxiliary liquid. From the perspective of maintaining the activity of the strain, single use also allows users to not worry about the pollution problem after repeated use.
The conversation with Guo undoubtedly clarified how to carry out the project in the future and benefit more people! According to his suggestion, the product's application form will be "probiotic freeze-dried powder+single-use nutrient solution." However, we also need to comprehensively consider the product's efficacy and consumer acceptance, which is our next plan. At the same time, Guo confirmed the feasibility of our project in practice and encouraged us to consider additional solutions to potential security issues in the future.
To deeply understand the public's awareness of scalp care products and their acceptance of our products, BUCT conducted offline street interviews. Through our interviews, we have learned that the vast majority of interviewees have scalp problems of varying degrees, and they have tried a variety of hair-generating and anti-dandruff products, especially among young people. Everyone expressed their interest in this product when we referred to a new type of scalp care product that is in probiotic form. However, they also expressed their concerns :
"It's beyond logic and reason to put bacteria on my scalp. Will this make me sick?"
"Will microbes make my hair smell? If that happens, I prefer to use shampoo."
"I have fixed hair care products. However, if the price is appropriate, I may try it."
The problems mentioned by the public mainly concern safety, added value, and cost. As for safety, we realize that it is necessary to strengthen the public's understanding of biological knowledge, so we will also make more efforts in education. Although E.coli Nissle 1917 is completely harmless to human beings, gene manipulation will also cause some worry. We fully understand the public's psychology, so we will also try our best to consider security issues comprehensively. Therefore, we calculated the lowest bacterial density that E. coli Nissle 1917 could have an effect. In addition, we screened a quorum-sensing promoter according to it. The genetically modified Nissle will not die if it meets the limit of bacterial density, but it will die once it exceeds the limit. Such a mechanism effectively solves the security problem caused by high strain density at the level of experimental design. To better meet the public's preference, we enriched the experimental design. We make E. coli Nissle 1917 synthesize 2-phenyl ethanol while consuming fatty acids, which is a substance with a rose aroma. In the future, we will also look for other small molecules with fragrance and try to make more fragrance-type scalp care probiotics to provide help for people with scalp odor and improve the added value of the product. In addition, the public's concern about product prices reminds us that optimizing technology and reducing costs are the targets in the process of moving the project from laboratory development to industrialization in the future.
BUCT has designed a probiotic beneficial to scalp health, and it is envisaged that "probiotic lyophilized powder+secondary throwing nutrition auxiliary liquid" will be the application form of the product. In order to get more people willing to try new products and help them better benefit from it in the future, we think it is necessary to further investigate and think about the usage and preparations involved in this project.
Our aim is to realize the application assumption in reality. In the future, we hope that the probiotics we built can be made into real commodities and actually help people who need skin care. We have done a lot of publicity work on the concept of scalp health, but we know that only by making the project design a real product can people have the opportunity to use our probiotics.
In principle, a product should meet the needs and requirements of the target object. We need to reflect on our products. Advantages of our products include (but are not limited to):
①lengthened effective duration Nowadays, many shampoo and hair care products will increase the function of scalp care, but as products that people use when cleaning themselves, most people use them for 20-30s each time. And our probiotics can be used at any time. Our modified probiotics can stay on the scalp surface for several hours.
②Simple usage and mild effect. Our design allows people to use it conveniently.
BUCT comprehensively considered the curative effect and consumer acceptance of the product, and finally decided to use "probiotic freeze-dried powder+secondary throwing nutrition auxiliary liquid" as the application form of the product.
Probiotics of BUCT need to be mixed with about 4mL of disposable solution (or essence) first, and applied in the hairline with your fingers. We are worried that many people will find it difficult to accept our design because of the safety of live bacteria preparation. So we try our best to pay attention to the voices of people around us.
Fig 4 the kind of products people are more willing to accept for scalp
We counted online what kind of products people are more willing to accept for scalp. In fact, as far as our members' parents and friends from all over the world are concerned, the essence is the most popular among them, whether it is reusable essence or disposable essence.
BUCT analyzed the feedback results of willingness survey, and the results were in good agreement with the assumption of our product application form. However, there are still many ways to go in the process of the project from laboratory development to industrialization. We have made some thoughts on the future:
1.How to further optimize our technology? Maybe we can improve the growth-promoting factors, and increase the added value other than fragrance substances.
2.In addition to the product form of "probiotic freeze-dried powder+second-throw nutritional auxiliary liquid", can we innovate new application forms to increase the curative effect and reduce the cost?
In the care of scalp health, we will further collect feedback from the community in the future to continuously improve the project. In addition, we also want to explore other skin areas such as face and hands, and create a healthy skin for people by innovating our products.
BUCT does not think that only thick hair represents beauty, nor do we want to discuss the issue on aesthetics.The original intention of BUCT is just to provide more help for people who hope they will not lose their hair.This is also reflected in BUCT's propaganda song Hey Hair: "Oh forget my bald scalp, relief my distress."
No matter how people look, tall or thin, with thick or thin hair, they should confidently enjoy a good life. If someone laughs at you because you are different, please respond to them: How dare you have my style!
BUCT's values are close to French artist Cécile Dormeau, Mexican American artist Lilian Martinez, Swedish artist Camilla Engström and so on. What we want to promotes is "let people accept their identity and appreciate what they have brought to the world. Be proud of their appearance - regardless of their difference, mentally or physically."
The HP work of BUCT is based on the interests of the local community and a wider range of people. Any questionnaire, interview or other work has declared the principle of voluntariness in advance, and juveniles involved in HP work have obtained the permission of their guardians.We have always sought to conform all our actions to positive values.
【1】Wang, T., Zhou, C. et. al (2010), Prevalence of androgenetic alopecia in China: a community-based study in six cities. British Journal of Dermatology, 162: 843-847.
【2】Xu Z, Wang Z, Yuan C, Liu X, Yang F, Wang T, Wang J, Manabe K, Qin O, Wang X, Zhang Y, Zhang M. Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms. Sci Rep. 2016 May 12;6:24877. doi: 10.1038/srep24877. PMID: 27172459; PMCID: PMC4864613.