In order to understand the current dyeing technology in the market, we contacted the person in charge of Suining Qunkang printing and dyeing limited liability company located in Sichuan Province, asked him about the steps of dyeing process used by most of the factories at present, and made a detailed investigation on each specific step and a variety of specific dyeing methods.
Fabric treatment process before dyeing: Turning cloth - sewing head - scouring - singeing - mercerizing
The process of dyeing process: priming - pre drying - drying - color development (fixation) - washing - drying – arrangement after finishing
What are the wastes and pollution generated in the existing dyeing process?
There are many pollution sources in the existing cotton dyeing process: dyes that have not been fully absorbed, additives in the dyes, and inorganic substances that help the dyes to dye, such as caustic soda, soda ash, insurance powder, etc.
What factors need to be considered in our project:
whether the dye can be dyed, the dyeing conditions, the color fastness, the color spectrum of the dye, the determination of the dyeing conditions to determine the process flow and supporting equipment for large-scale production.
In the investigation of ancient Chinese dyeing methods, we unexpectedly found that even after thousands of years of precipitation, the color of clothes was still bright. On the contrary, many of the clothes we buy now will fade after repeated washing. So we further explored the dyeing process of ancient clothing and found that plant dyeing is an environmentally friendly and high-quality dyeing method.
Plant dyeing refers to a method of dyeing objects by extracting pigments from various naturally growing plants containing pigments. It refers to a process in which natural dyes are used for dyeing, and natural dyes obtained from nature are used for dyeing products without or rarely using chemical additives in the dyeing process. The history of human use of natural dyes can be traced back to the Paleolithic age 100000 years ago. At that time, mountaintop cave people used mineral pigments to dye red necklaces. The use of natural substances to dye colorful colors reflects the earliest pursuit of beauty. However, with the development of the chemical industry, cheap and easy to produce chemical dyes quickly seize the market, resulting in natural dyes being gradually forgotten by the people. As the world pays more attention to environmental protection and the demand for clothing quality rises, the market demand for natural dyes becomes more and more urgent. In 2022, SUSTech_Shenzhen hopes to improve the shortcomings of difficult access and high cost of natural dyes, and use bacteria to produce safe, harmless and environmentally friendly high-quality textile dyes through synthetic biology.
At last, we summarized to an Investigation report on dyeing method after Q&A with dyeing factory.
1、Traditional dyeing technology and process
Before the invention of chemical dyes, ancient China used a variety of plants as raw materials for dyeing. Different plants, together with different mordants and fabrics, could produce different colors. Plant dyes are derived from natural plants. The dyed clothes are not only natural and pollution-free, but also stable, with high color fastness, and even have the efficacy of sterilization and anti-inflammatory of plants themselves. There are many different coloring techniques in traditional Chinese plant dyeing, such as raw leaf dyeing, which directly uses fresh plants to dye, and decocting dyeing, which needs to increase the temperature through decocting to make the pigment adhere to the clothes better.
The tie-dye elements that are very popular in the clothing market at present also come from the ancient tie-dye technology in ancient China. In Yunnan, China, the Bai people will hand weave white cotton and earth cloth, then create patterns, and dye beautiful fabrics through the manual flower tying method of sewing and binding. The main steps of tie dyeing include painting patterns, wringing, soaking, dyeing cloth, cooking, drying, stripping, rinsing, and cloth grinding. Among them, there are mainly two processes of tying flowers and immersion dyeing. The technical key is the wringing technique and dyeing skills. Batik is also an ancient traditional hand dyeing method. It first uses a wax knife to dip the melted wax into the cloth and then uses indigo to dye, and then uses water to boil and dewax to show the pattern. The dye penetrates the cloth through the cracks of the wax, leaving naturally formed ice cracks on it, adding artistry and interest.
Natural dyeing needs to start from planting plants, and the cost and uncontrollability are higher than those of chemical dyes. However, its safety and environmental protection are far higher than chemical dyes, so it is favored by consumers in the high-end market.
2.Jig dyeing
Jig dyeing, the method of fabric dyeing on a roll dyeing machine. The fabric is wound on one roller of the jigger in a flat width, and then wound to another roller through the dyeing bath. After the winding, it is repeated in reverse until the fabric is uniformly dyed with the desired color. It is an intermittent production method, suitable for multi variety and small batch production. At present, the printing and dyeing industry is developing rapidly. At the same time of large-scale orders, there are also many relatively small orders. The winding dyeing cylinder plays a certain role in the replenishment and repair of small-scale orders or large-scale orders, which not only improves efficiency but also reduces factory costs.
3.Beck dyeing
Beck dyeing is a method of fabric coloring in modern industrial mass production. The modern dyeing tank has the functions of heating and stirring. It is an electrically controlled equipment with digital control. It is composed of the cylinder body, water supply and drainage system, dye and chemical addition system, heat exchange system and power system. The cylinder body is used to hold the dyeing liquid and dip the dyed fabric. The water supply and drainage system is used for quantitative water addition and drainage. The dyestuff and chemical additive system is used for dissolving, dispersing and injecting dyes and auxiliaries into the cylinder block. The function of the heat exchange system is to circulate or directly heat the dye solution in the cylinder. The power system makes the fabric run and dye evenly. Once, the traditional printing and dyeing process needed to produce a large amount of printing and dyeing sewage and waste gas through high temperature and high pressure, which would pollute the environment.