Integrated Human Practice
Overview
This year, LINKS_China aimed to produce a biological and environmental friendly sunscreen using MAAs such as Shinorine, Porphyra-334, and sunburn repair products using enzymes coated in liposomes. In setting up our project, we conducted a survey with a total of 1325 people to identify the general expectations and concerns about sunscreen cosmetics. To find the most efficient ways for laboratory works, LINKS interviewed various experts of MAA extraction and cell experiments. To further strengthen our business model, we visited several Cosmetic manufacturers and cosmetic shops for more information about the real- life demand of sunscreen. Lastly, concluding all the investigation results, we designed two educational activities targeting different customers.
UV_PRISMA: Healthier, environmental friendly, the best new choice for sunscreen
We wear sunscreens, but admittedly, most of the time we do not enjoy the time wearing it. Even though some of us realize the importance of sunscreen, we are bothered by the “side effects” brought by these sunscreens. Oily texture, harmful substances, detrimental to environment… Conventional chemical sunscreens have countless number of defects that are almost outweighing people’s willingness to apply them. Chemical sunscreens contain Avobenzone and oxybenzone, which lower the water temperature surrounding corals and stimulate corals to bleach. Moreover, corals’ mortality rate elevates due to their DNA being damaged by the chemical substances as well. Correspondingly, this unhealthy situation with the corals adds stress on the symbiotic partners with corals, further affecting the food chain in marine severely. Aside from the environment, chemical sunscreens affect our internal body as well. It can potentially lead to endocrine dyscrasia, provokes cell aging, and damaging the collagen and cutin in our skins.
Figure 1: The mechanism of sunscreens
With this all being said, we realized the necessity to find a better sunscreen that fits humans. Indeed, we found it: the Mycosporine-like amino acid (MAA). By adding this substance into our UV_PRISMA sunscreen, we can mostly solve a lot of major issues faced by the conventional sunscreens. Except for the extensive range of UVA and UVB rays it can absorb, the natural characteristic that makes it water soluble and potentially oxygen resistance, MAA’s advantage can be presented as a chain reaction: after most of the substances will be absorbed by our skins, the remaining MAAs which falls into the water will be passed on to the marine species, aiding them to get protection from UV-rays, which is both healthy and friendly for the environment. More importantly, it fits for almost any groups of people. For example, the outdoor athletes, workers, and sports players would require sunscreen with durable sunscreens, which MAA can accomplish since the small molecules can be made into sprays and are easily able to permeate humans’ skins and be absorbed. To women, who concerns mainly about texture and color, MAA is light and colorless (also odorless), which prevents female from being bothered by the oily texture of the sunscreen that might interfere with other cosmetic products on their faces.
Figure 2: UV absorption range of four MAAs
You might be wondering, if MAA is already this perfect and exists as a product available in the current market, why are we still choosing it as our topic? In fact, the production of MAA is very costly and inefficient. They are extracted inefficiently in small amounts from algaes and requires complex procedures in removing the toxic phycotoxins before it can be safely used by us. Consequently, there are rarely any manufacturers who are willing to produce MAA sunscreens, and even if there are, they sell it at a super expensive price that customers are not willing to afford for.
Therefore, we are here deciding to fix this current issue towards MAA sunscreens. We chose to use genetically engineered yeasts to produce this sunscreen, which is safe, healthy, and absolutely harmless to human, for everyone to use. By using yeasts, we can raise the yielding by a lot, making the manufacturing process efficient, thus, decreasing the price of MAA sunscreens.
Our lab is located at Shenzhen, China, which is also a city next to the sea. We understand deeply how UV-rays can cause serious harms towards us, and how conventional sunscreens are destroying the natural world gradually. We care about our peers, we care about the environment, and we promote sustainability. Thus, we have this strong desire to let everyone have the opportunity to be protected from UV-rays with a reasonable priced sunscreen that Is environmentally friendly and beneficial simultaneously. With this sense of duty, we chose to do this large but meaningful topic.
Noticing the outstanding characteristics of biological sunscreens, we believe UV_PRISMA will be a perfect substitute of traditional sunscreens which are currently in the market, and even making large improvements. Therefore, we devoted a lot of time into human practice to understand about MAA, our customers, and everything about sunscreens.
What do we need to do?
We want to promote this healthy and eco-friendly sunscreen product made with MAA to the world. However, we do not have a picture clear enough of users with sun protection that needs to be added and improved. In order to gain a deeper understanding of users' needs for sunscreen products and their concerns about biological sun protection, we have to conduct a series of research on sunscreen users. For the post-sunburn repair segment, we still had doubts about the medical aspects, so we also needed to investigate the issues related to sunburn by consulting with medical experts.
Before starting the project, we read a lot of literature on the production and extraction of MAA and concluded that genetically engineered microbial production of MAA has been a very hot topic in the last 2 years. However, to complete this project, we are still facing many operational problems. For example, the standard product of MAA is not available in the market and we need to purify it ourselves with natural materials. Therefore, we needed to find some experts to provide us with experience in purification.
After the successful completion of the MAA products, the question turned to the actual production and product positioning. For example, how can these products actually be used in cosmetics? Are there any national regulatory restrictions? What do consumers think about these new products? These are the questions that we need to address and work with the relevant professionals. First, we need to find out from the manufacturers of the cosmetic products how they are really made. Then, we need to understand the sales logic, the marketing strategy, and the consumer's buying intentions and considerations; furthermore, consulting with the relevant laws and regulations to turn our products into national standard goods is also crucial. After completing these studies, our product chain, from production to sales, is complete. With the above questions and needs in mind, we conducted the following visits and research.
Initial survey in setting up our project
At the beginning of this project, we designed a questionnaire survey to better identify the customer’s needs, attitudes, and usage habit on the topic of traditional sunscreens and the biological sunscreen. This survey was posted on social media to collect the information ranging from the people’s locations, age, their knowledge about the current sunscreens on the market to their reactions to the biological sunscreen we are producing. We then analyzed the results, cross referencing between age, gender, preference etc. to pinpoint crucial points for the future development of our product.
A total of 1325 people were included as part of this investigation. From which we were able to conclude an overview of usage habits and find out how the unmet needs of traditional physical and chemical sunscreens could be remedied by the use of MAA as sunscreen ingredient. Accordingly, we were also able to locate what crucial features our product should include. This survey acted as a guide for our project to better appeal to the customers in the target market.
Figure 3: The amount of knowledge participants have on the fact sunscreen is harmful to sea life
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Conversation with our perfect customers: Sailor team
We got a thorough feedback through the survey, we understood that male had a unique perceptions towards sunscreen. Therefore, with a clearer picture when targeting customers, we came into contact with a sailing team in Shenzhen, China. Since sailing requires sailors to be exposed to sunlight directly and severely on sea, we arranged an interview with them to understand their demand, thus, helping us to improve our sunscreen.
Knowing that male constitute an extremely small section in the customers of sunscreen products, we wanted to know more about their motivation of not buying them and provide possible education regarding biological sunscreen. Our purpose of this interview with the sailing team members is to learn more about demands and concerns of athletes, who had a high frequency of sunscreen usage, and had direct contact with marine ecosystems. Through the interview with the sailing team members, we collected important information about their habit of using sunscreens, opinions about current sunscreens in the market, and suggestions towards our sunscreens from the point of view of a sailor. We also provide them with educational information about sunburn and the importance of environmental friendly sunscreens, which our product would be the best choice for them due to it’s fresh, environmental friendly, and convenient application characteristics.
Through the interview, we learned that males tend to have more concerns about the efficacy about sunscreens, especially athletes who experience direct exposure to sunlight. Based on the interviewees' suggestions, we can improve our sunscreen by potentially increasing the concentration of MAA in sunscreen to enhance the efficacy.
Figure 4: Group photo of all members in the sailor team
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Lab experiences shared by MAA expert
After getting an initial idea of how the public perceives and thinks about sunscreen from all aspects, we understood the current dissatisfactions people have with sunscreens, which enhanced our confidence in performing and carrying out this project. Therefore, we shifted our focus towards MAA: the basic and most essential substance in our sunscreen. Correspondingly, with numerous questions and things to learn, we contacted a MAA expert.
At the initial stage of the experiment, there were several challenges faced by Links: The experiment procedure and algae for extracting MAAs were inefficient and MAAs products were rare in cosmetics markets. Thus, during the search stage, Links read a news that Dr. Zhang’s team in the Hubei Water Resources Research Institute found a method to produce high-purity of Shinorine and Porphyra-334 from algae. Then Links contacted Dr. Zhang immediately and arranged the online interview.
During the interview, he suggested Links using algae like Microcystis aeruginosa 7806, Aphanizomeonon flosaquae and nori to extract MAAs. He also gives Links two articles for improving the procedure of extracting MAAs. Dr. Zhang Hang pointed out the limitation of algae because of toxin and he described his will to keep in touch with Links for further suggestions because he believed Links can open up the limitation of algae.
After the interview, Links analyzed articles by Dr. Zhang and improved our procedure of experiment.
Figure 5: A screenshot of our online interview with Dr.Zhang (The men in the first row, third column)
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Interviewing Sunburn repair expert
With the interview with the MAA expert being completed and having an understanding towards MAA, we shifted our focus to our second main part of the project: sunburn repairs. We did not only want to forge a natural, safe, and effective biological sunscreen, we also want it to have the ability to help people who already experienced sunburn to recover by using UV_PRISMA.
For reducing the damage of UV rays to the skin, LINKS_China decided to create the fusion protein of SOD-Catalase. After finding the efficient pathway of MAA extraction in the interview with Dr.Zhang, Links faced several challenges on how to deliver the fusion protein to human cells. Prof. Xiong is an expert in the field of cardiovascular aging and stem cell extracellular vesicles, so Links contacted Prof. Xiong immediately and arranged the online interview.
During the interview, he suggested Links utilizing human cell-derived vesicles to encapsulate the fusion protein. These vesicles have good histocompatibility and can efficiently transfer the fusion protein into skin cells. Prof. Xiong pointed out that we need to conduct follow-up animal experiments and preclinical studies to verify the actual effects of these proteins in vivo, and to find the appropriate dosage of fusion protein.
After the interview, Links analyzed Prof. Xiong's suggestions and improved our procedure of experiments.
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Conversation with local doctors for sunburn repair
On top of learning more about sunburn repair proteins and the experimental manipulation of post-sunburn repair and improving our experiment, we wanted to know more about the common symptoms of sunburn patients and further understand how sunburn patients actually respond to measures to reduce pain or skin peeling caused by sunburn. And, we knew from our preliminary survey that many male participants got sunburned because they did not realize the importance of sunscreen, and we wanted to know more about the common symptoms of sunburn patients. Therefore, LINKS contacted Dr. Wang from the Plastic Surgery Department of Shantou University Hospital. Through our conversation with her, we learned more about the common symptoms of sunburn patients and some potential treatments for these symptoms.
After speaking with her, we confirmed that our sunburn repair products are in high demand due to the increased awareness of sunburn prevention in general.
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Visiting and interviewing local cosmetic shopping centers
After completing the production research about the product, we planned this visit and survey in order to understand the sunscreen market and customer needs more deeply in order to improve our products and marketing. We conducted interviews with the staff of sunscreen-related cosmetic counters and categorized and designed the questions for each side, divided into two offline groups and visited high-end and low-end shopping malls respectively.
By analyzing the results, we obtained more updated information about market demand and supply. Inspirations for a follow-up educational campaign and business plan.
Figure 6: The communication between the team members and the counter staff
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Visiting a Cosmetic manufacturing company
From our pre-interview with Dr. Zhang, we learned why there are few MAA sunscreen products available, which made us wonder if sunscreen manufacturers would consider our MAA products worth the investment. In addition to this, we wanted to learn from industry experts what factors consumers look for most when purchasing in order to polish the possible niche for our sunscreen products. To do this, we contacted and visited Lantern, a 29-year-old company. The company sells a wide range of cosmetic products as well as researching and producing new products. We researched Lantern's products and patents and prepared questions for Lantern's three divisions (manufacturing, production, and sales).
During our visit to Lantern on July 8, we first visited their product showroom and production line. Then, we presented our project to the CEO of Lantern in the conference room. After we both got to know each other better, we had a three-hour discussion with Lantern's CEO and their production, research and marketing executives. Finally, we did extensive background research on the NMPA's sunscreen ingredient approval process.
The visit gave us a deeper understanding of the manufacturing, production and sales of sun protection related products.
Figure 7 & 8: The Lantern company
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Contacting National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) for future implementation
After visiting Lantern, knowing that that biological sunscreen would be widely accepted if implemented, we wanted to learn more about the application process and control policy for new products. During our interview with Lantern, we found out that sunscreens belong to the category of special cosmetics, and the verification process before the product enters the market is very strict. Therefore, we interviewed staff from the State Food and Drug Administration to learn more about the review process related to special cosmetics.
First, we framed the questions and divided them into different categories. The questions basically revolved around two themes. The first question was to clarify the definition of a special cosmetic and to understand why the process requires such a high standard. The second was to understand the improvements in the new policy for material testing since the government began encouraging the development of the bioeconomy. Afterward, we called the staff member and asked him the questions we had prepared. He pointed out the definition of a special cosmetic and made some suggestions for the registration of MAAs related to sunscreens.
This activity gave us a better understanding of the product registration process related to MAA and prepared us for any subsequent product filings that may be required.
Figure 9: National Medical Products Administration (NMPA)
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Conclusion
In conclusion, through accepting suggestions from experts, relevant personnels, and cosmetic companies, LINKS_China had huge breakthroughs in the project. They not only provided us with distinct perspective for our projects, but they also gave us valuable insights regarding laboratory and entrepreneurship works. We had gained the most efficient technique for MAA extraction by interviewing Dr.Zhang. We successfully produced the target enzyme by adopting suggestions from Professor Xiong. We also constructed a strong business plan (Click the entrepreneur link to view more details ) based on the survey conducted and the status quo market situation shared by cosmetic manufacturers. Therefore LINKS had successfully applied those insights and perspective into forming our final product.